“Our ice cream flavours change with the seasons,” says gelato craftsman Luuc Koldenhof.He does not mean the Dutch seasons. “The longer fruit ripens on the tree, the fuller the flavour. That is why we import all our fruit. We do not use fruits that have been picked halfripe, transported to the Netherlands and then ripened off in cool rooms.” The same applies for the milk he uses: “A real gelato needs tobe prepared with full cream milk that contains at least 3.5 per cent fat. In the Netherlands full cream milk contains, by law, 3.1 per cent fat. That is why we get our milk from Germany.”