“There is nothing special about what I am doing, you know,” he begins. What comes next is a long, interesting and sometimes critical monologue about how the craft of cooking has changed over the years. “Nowadays, most dishes do not even look like they are edible. Chefs give all their attention to the appearance of their food and forget to think about the taste.” That is exactly what Nieboer is rebelling against with his own restaurant, which he started little more than two years ago. Nieboer decided to switch from “wasteful” à la carte menus to three, four or fivecourse menus, which he describes as a blessing.